Tom Colicchio's Craft
I really appreciate good food. I don't
remember the last time I had such a thoroughly pleasant meal. I’ve been to
quite a few restaurants that specialize in farm to table foods, but Craft is by
far the most memorable dining experience where the freshness of the food is
married happily to the chef’s flavors. In a nutshell, Craft is what you wished
your pioneer American grandmother cooked like.
We started off with a half dozen Wellfleet
and a half dozen Barron Points. They were both on the medium side, and I cannot
over emphasize the freshness. They were served with a simple lemon and a
vinegar concoction. The amuse bouche arrived shortly after, which was a blissful
chilled corn and basil oil soup.
We then ordered several appetizers to
share. My favorite was the butter lettuce and six minute egg, which was a
simple salad topped with a breaded soft boiled egg. The egg was inexplicably
delicious. The runny yolk all over my lettuce was divine. Another highlight was
the suckling pig ballotine. If you like Chinese style roast pig, you will like
this. It is crisped to perfection! The foie gras with peach was also a
favorite. The foie gras was supple, and the tart notes of the peach balanced
the fattiness of the liver.
For my entree, I ordered the eggplant and
basil mezzaluna. For me, a mezzaluna is similar to a wonton because of the thin
skin (read: I now understand Mistral’s crab ravioli). These mezzalunas in
particular were beyond delicious. The mashed eggplant and basil were flavorful
and aromatic, the skin was silky smooth, and the sauce was creamy but not
overwhelming. So good. My brother and father shared the rib eye and bone
marrow, which my brother said he preferred to Minetta Tavern’s monstrosity. My
mother had a very tasty lamb loin, which was well seasoned and tender without
any of the gamey flavor.
One of my favorite parts of dinner was actually
the side dishes. Definitely get the braised corn; they’re sweet and creamy. I
also really enjoyed the hen of the woods mushrooms, which were flavored nicely
with some thyme. And my brother had many helpings of the potato gratin, which was
quite rich.
Finally, for dessert, my brother
predictably got the raspberry and lemon tart, which was a bit too sour for me,
but that’s what he likes. My dad’s greek yoghurt panna cotta was good, but it
would have been better if it were a smaller portion. I think the favorite was
the peach-pecan cobbler. It’s like apple pie, but summer. I got it with salted
honey ice cream, so needless to say, I was in my happy place. If only my
parents had a bit more patience, then I could have tried the chocolate soufflé!
All in all, what a
great dinner! I don’t remember the last time I had such a solid meal from beginning
to end. The ingredients were simple, the food was of great quality, and it was
all so delicious. I cannot wait to come back again! And okay, I understand that
you probably do not have a pioneer American grandmother, but neither do I. But in
my wildest dreams, this is what she cooked for me in my little house on the prairie.
Butter lettuce and six minute egg |
30 day dry aged rib eye bone marrow |
Eggplant and basil mezzaluna |
Raspberry and lemon tart |